Fried, dyed hair. Fake tans in the dead of winter. French manicures and pedicures. Small dogs peeping out of big bags. Blouses that match jackets that match the sole of one’s Louboutins. Gold jewelery. Pencil skirts and great big belts. I know, I know, this is what Victoria Beckham wears when she gets off the plane at Heathrow but it is O-Vah. Finito. Gone.
Being done up, over groomed, over tailored and encrusted with labels is OK in Moscow but for the everyday girl it’s hard work and just a touch ageing. Like the free sisters who threw away their panty-hose and corsets at the start of the sixties it’s high time to make-under you make-up, find out what your hair does WITHOUT hot rollers and throw away all those foamy push-up bras. The role models are Jane Birkin and her daughter Charlotte Gainsbourg, the Anglo-French gamines that make a total art of less.
One great pair of high waisted wide jeans, one narrow shouldered striped silk T-shirt, one amazing tuxedo jacket, a high heeled boot, clog or espadrille and some barely there makeup. Loose chignon. Trail of exotic perfume. You’re there. The restraint of selective chic is terrifying at first. One feels naked without the big watch, the spiky heels and the cleavage. But it’s high time to loosen up, and if you have freckles or wavy tendrils or bushy eye-brows let em’ shine. Less was never so much more as it is right now.
WHAT’S NOT
The gigantic designer bag with the gigantic logo or statement handle doesn’t look as clever as a leather backpack or a canvas satchel with a little military buckle. If you hate your bag steal your husband’s. Grossly expensive details like fat furry collars, excess embroidery and beadwork, or too much lace are shame-faced these days. Ditto the high maintenance statement piece like a sweeping cashmere wrap in a “don’t touch me” shade like cream or pale pink. Designer shoes with baroque heels step back and so do booties with logos on the buckles. Imagine whatever Paris Hilton or J Lo wear to brunch at the Beverly Hills Hotel and then run in the opposite direction in the flattest plainest gladiator sandals you can find.
WHAT’S HOT
A perfect silk shirt unbuttoned to the sternum and no bra. Long, unbrushed hair, tuxedo pants and a bit of mascara. That’s what Charlotte Gainsbourg wore to promote her last album. It was studied elegance and total confidence. Her Mum taught her well. Jane Birkin still sweeps on stage in a plain red dress, a whisper of lisptick and no shoes. It’s the Paris trick of holding back all the stops to make one devastating statement.
So as winter winds down imagine buying one dress for spring and wearing just that. No bangles. No waistcoats. No belts. Just a dress, a sexy pair of ankle boots and a toss of your newly liberated hair. All the money you save on fussy Princessy accessories should also go into an amazing evening suit, which you’ll wear in broad daylight with cream dancing shoes and a white singlet. A man’s watch. Nothing more. Role models for the new natural are glamorous in an austere way and, more importantly, they look like they dressed themselves.
I’m seeing safari jackets and beat up vintage ethnic silver. I’m feeling men’s tailoring and tiny prints on silk. And you’ll soon be absolutely craving whispery hues like violet, coco and dove grey. Hello Maggie Glynenhall, Lauren Hutton Cat Power and co. and bye bye blow-dry.
Anna Johnson has been a journalist for TV, print and radio for twenty one years. Exactly half her life. She was a regular contributor to Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, Conde Nast Traveler, The Australian and The Sydney Morning Herald before concentrating her energies on her own books. Three Black Skirts is now translated into 17 languages. Handbags: The Power of the Purse has sold a quarter of a million copies and her new book The Yummy Manifesto is being written for Random House, US. Anna is a mother of one with no hobbies.
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